Monday, April 28, 2008

No Bobsled Accidents

I was in the secretary's office today and lucky for me, a friend who is fluent in English and Japanese was there to translate. Here is a brief rundown of the conversation.

Translation Friend: "The secretary says you have to buy insurance to cover your field work."
Me: "I already have the required medical insurance,and the required family insurance, and the required extended health insurance."
T.F: "No, it isn't a health coverage thing, its for field work."
Me: "What do you mean? What kind of other insurance would I need for field work."
T.F.: "I am not sure, but the University requires anyone who goes to do field work to hold this insurance. It is mandatory. The secretary needs you to pay it."
Side note - the secretary always feels awkward asking me for money or more signatures. It was a relief to have a fluent translator helping this process along.
Me: "Tell her no problem, I will pay the insurance. When does she need the money?"
T.F.: "Today."
Me: "I will have to pay her tomorrow."
Side note - this conversation is happening at 4:00 in the afternoon and she usually leaves around 4:30.
T.F.: "She says that is ok."
Me: "I still want to know why they seem to need me to pay for insurance that should be covered by the University. What is this insurance for?"
T.F.: "She is looking up the paperwork, it will take her a minute to find out what it is for. She hasn't ever been asked that before."


T.F.: Reading the paperwork (with the help of another Japanese guy who can read kanji). "OK, well it looks like you are covered in case you die in the field."
Me: "That doesn't do me much good."
T.F.: "And this coverage means that they will come and look for you if you go missing while doing field work."
Me: "Are you telling me that they won't send out search and rescue if I go missing while undertaking field work on behalf of the university unless I buy this insurance."
T.F.: "Kind of.... Well they might come look for you, but it is expensive."
Me:"Please tell me that you are joking. They don't leave missing people on a rock somewhere in the raging Pacific just because they didn't buy this silly insurance."
T.F.: "Wait, there are some exceptions listed. It says here that this insurance doesn't count if you are in a car accident, or if you go missing as a result of tsunami, earthquake or volcanic activity."
Me: "The tsunami coverage would certainly be nice considering that we work on the rocky shore in a country that created the word "tsunami". Is that all the exceptions?"
T.F.: "No, it also says that you aren't covered if you have an accident that results from drunk driving, suicidal activity, skydiving and bobsledding, and the list goes on."

So, I am now the proud owner of insurance that allows me to do field work with the comfort of knowing that they might recover my bloated corpse so long as I go missing as a result of an accident involving some bizzare activity that they haven't dreamt of excluding, like hippo wrestling or magic carpet riding.

Friday, April 25, 2008

Party Time

Our lab has had party after party in the past month. We have gatherings to welcome new students, to say goodbye to current students when they get a job and are heading off and to congratulate students who complete their studies. Some parties have been multi-person affairs where we welcome or say goodbye to a group at a time while others have been individual farewell parties.

These events are mostly held during the week and usually involves dinner and nomihodai (bottomless drink). There is always a speech by the incoming or outgoing individual and a "question time" where others get the chance to ask them a question in front of everyone. I don't understand most of what is said though so those parts don't hold my interest. Here is a photo of my host researcher addressing the party.



Last night we had a farewell party for the phd student who was assigned to help me get comfortable in Sapporo. He picked me up from the airport, helped me move furniture, helped me buy a computer, set up my internet at home (a colossal undertaking in Japan when you are using an English operating system) and countless other things related to work. Needless to say, I will miss having him around. He is off to a government research job estimating fish stocks and seems really excited about it.

This farewell party was at a Jenghis Kahn place. Jenghis Kahn is the name for mutton BBQ, usually cooked on a domed grill placed over hot coals, here are some photos. I have eaten this before but have never really understood the connection between the name of the dish and the Mongolian founder and emperor Genghis Kahn. My supervisor shared his explaination of the name with me last night. I will relate it now, but take no responsibility for accuracy (I have found in Japan that different people often have very different interpretations of history - could be translation issues of course).




He told me that about 50 or 60 years ago, Hokkaido was having difficulty with meat supply and government officials were trying to find a solution and a new source of protein. Their solution was to introduce sheep farming to Hokkaido but the problem with this was that people wouldn't eat mutton. As a way to create demand for this new meat, they created a meal of mutton and vegetable BBQ and called in Jenghis Kahn, an arbitrary name related only because Mongolian people like to eat mutton. This dish became known as "Hokkaido speciality" and is now commonly eaten in restaurants and on picnics in the summer.

I have been intrigued by the ways in which Japanese government solves social issues. Installation of speakers in toilets with recorded toilet flushing sounds to prevent excess water wastage when people flush while going to mask the sounds of their own pee is another good example. I guess just telling people that it is an unnecessary waste of water wasn't enough.

Here is some of the other more interesting fare we enjoyed as "second party" (all parties are followed up by second party). Mmmmm - whole raw mini squid.

Monday, April 21, 2008

Hungarian Hockey Fans

The IIFC came to Sapporo to hold the B pool round robin tournament that would decide who attends the big show coming up in Canada in a couple of weeks. What did this mean? Some pretty good international hockey right here in Sapporo where we would have our choice of seats for incredibly cheap and be able - no, encouraged - to bring our own beer into the arean with us! Being the good Canadians that we are, we felt it was our patriotic duty to attend.

We watched a couple of games on Wednesday, the first one was a sleeper, but the second game was really fun to watch. Japan versus Hungary, two well matched teams, good physical play and a couple of home town boys on the team (the team captain is Canadian and so is the coaching staff and another player). Japan didn't manage the win in the end, which meant that the only remaining undefeated teams were Hungary and Ukraine.

On Saturday we returned to the arena, this time mixed in with the Hungarian fans (the woman I bought most of my furniture from is Hungarian and got us a couple of seats in the team Hungary section) to watch the deciding match - Hungary vs Ukraine. It was another great game and loads of fun to be part of the rowdy section. Hungary won the match and were thrilled to be heading off to Canada for the top tournament.




Shawn and another friend of ours thought it was important to properly congratulate the team (and they noticed that there was virtually no security at the rink preventing lunatic fans from storming the ice) so they went out onto the ice to join the postgame celebration. They were pretty proud of themselves because not only did they get their mugs into a few photos with the winner's plate, they also made it into the dressing room to chat with the players while the press waited outside. They didn't stay long, but did get a souvenier for their efforts, a team manager gave them each a Hungarian Hockey Association collectors pin.

Pee Pole

Last week my supervisor stopped by to drop off some important information. He had a stack of papers, on which he had jotted a few translations, and a small package. He handed them to me and began explaining - somewhat awkwardly, but who can blame the poor guy - that I would have to submit a urine sample in this tube and then have a series of physical examinations (chest x-ray, eye test and other related things). I laughed and asked him if this was a cockroack check - he laughed but didn't say much else.


It turns out this was a campus-wide general health check up and not just a way to ensure that the dirty foreigners weren't carrying anything dangerous. Here is a photo of the "pee pole" - for real, every student on campus was issued one of these. Amazingly, I didn't see any of them used inappropriately or filled with beer of any other kind of silly joke. I can just imagine if such an item was distributed on a North American campus! And the best part is the cartoon of the girl pee droplet and boy pee droplet (appropriately in pink and blue) on the front demonstrating how to fill it, just on the off chance that you have made it all the way to university without really figuring out where your pee goes.


So, three questions on my question sheet and 6 rapid fire tests later I was finished the check up. I can't imagine that the tests will catch anything very serious because it was all done very quickly in a series of buildings. The only time spent with a physician was when I walked into the "exam room", the nurse nudeged the doc to wake him up, he read my question sheet, listened to my heart for maybe 3 whole beats then smiled and said "you are ok".

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Tourists in Sapporo

After Kyoto, we escorted mom and Meg up to Sapporo to show them around here. They were appreciative of our efforts and rewarded us with a suitcase full of Canadian products that we had been missing (iced tea mix, Dove products, hair care products for non-Asian hair types... silly comfortable things like that). Ahhhh, familiarity!

We spent the first day in Sapporo and the highlite of the day was a visit to the Ishiya Chocolate Factory. Any visit to a factory is interesting, but this one went over and above our expectations. The place was carefully decorated and left visitors feeling like a child walking around the Wonka factory. The only thing missing was Oompa Loompas - although the atmosphere was so convincing that I wonder if they are there, somewhere, hidden from tourists.


The best part was eating massive chocolate parfaits at the cafe, with a ghost player piano behind us playing a tune and the clock tower saluting the top of the hour. The clock tower is fun and I don't think that we even saw half of the dancing characters that came pouring out, surrounded by bubbles blown into the air.

For dinner we went to the Sapporo Beer Factory for Genghis Kahn (Korean Lamb BBQ). We didn't have time to visit the museum (read more about that here), but the feast of lamb and seafood was great.


Our next day was spent in Otaru, a neighbouring coastal city with glass blowing artisans and some of the best sushi in Japan. We looked through shops along the scenic canal area of town and ate a delish lunch of fresh sushi. Fantastic!


The final day of mom and Meg's visit we took a bus out to Jozankei - a nearby onsen resort town (we have been there before, but didn't walk around town, read about our last visit here). We had hoped to do some short hikes and soak our feet in the free public foot onsen along the side of the street, but the weather was too cold for that. We did take advantage of the foot onsen meant to bring health and longevity, and we walked through a tunnel at Iwato Kannon-do where 100 Buddhas line a 120 meter long cave dug into the mountainside.



We finished off with a visit to our favorite keiten sushi restaurant (conveyer belt sushi) and our first trip to the top of JR Tower. We were joined by our friends from Brazil, Dai and Natalia. The sushi was great and the chefs always put on a fun show as they shout to each other and fill orders. JR Tower observatory is on the 38th floor of the tallest building in Sapporo. The view from there was fantastic and the best part - they built luxury toilets against the glass wall of the deck on one corner where you can "relax" and enjoy the view of the city!


The view from JR Tower looking towards our apartment.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Kyoto Sights


We spent 2 action-packed days touring around Kyoto with mom and Meg. The first day we got up early and hit the "western style" breakfast in our hotel then bought 1 day bus passes and headed for the famed Golden temple.

Shawn was an excellent tour guide and only once had us board the wrong bus (pretty good for his first time there and no literary skills in kanji). Stop one on the list was Kinkauji temple, the famous "golden temple". We tried to get there at opening and beat the crowds, but I am not sure that there is ever a time when this place isn't busy. We did manage to get there while the sun was out and that made the temple look really impressive. I have been told that when it is overcast the gold plated walls don't look quite so stunning.

At Kinkakuji, my sis had her first chance to visit a Japanese style toilet. To clarify, this shouldn't be confused with the Cadillac toilets that do everything from heated seats to air drying your bottom (read about those here). No, this was a traditional style Japanese hole-in-the-floor style at a very busy tourist destination - in a word - filthy! This began what my sister would call, a study in Japanese toilets, that continued through the duration of her visit.

My mom's "first" at Kinkakuji was a sample of a traditional Japanese sweet (read more about these here). It was pounded rice dough filled with sesame paste. My mom's discovery with this trial - she really doesn't like the taste of sesame and the rice dough was "like raw pie dough". The rice paste is an aquired texture, and tends to be unappealing to the north american palate. This began the collective operation "avoid sesame flavoured everything", that would continue through the duration of the visit. Here is a photo of mom making Meg finish her sample.


Next stop on the tour - Nijo Castle. This was a fantastic place, a UNESCO world heritage site right in the heart of Kyoto. It is a walled castle, with a moat surrounding it, beatiful artwork on the walls and rock gardens. Built in 1603 as the residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun, it was the home of shoguns for over 200 years. One amazing feature of the palace is the Uguisu-bari or Nightingale floor. It was designed to squeak no matter where you step on the floor. It served as a security alarm against intruders. The sound it made when 10 or 20 tourists are strolling along the corridor was beautiful.



Lunch was in the Sanjo shopping arcade near the castle at a small chinese food place. The fact that the floors were sticky and the cook wore rubber boots should have been an indication that we should continue on and look for food elsewhere.

In the afternoon we walked through part of Sagano Bamboo Grove, a large bamboo forest to the west of Kyoto. It was a windy day and the trees sounded like wind chimes as they knocked together. Shawn felt like he should climb a tree and have a sword fight like the scene from Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon. We also visited one of the quiet temples near the forest. There were far less tourists here and it was a great way to end our first day, watching the light fade over Kyoto from this scenic temple.



The ride back to the hotel wasn't quite as zen, as we found ourselves on a packed commuter bus riding back to Kyoto station. Not a very comfortable experience, but one that is certainly truly Japanese.

The next day we got another early start at the very popular Kiyomizu Temple. It was a busy place overlooking Kyoto from the east. The narrow winding roads that lead up to the temple are lined with tourist shops and small places to eat. The roads are narrow and quickly become packed, wall to wall with tourists walking to and from their buses that can't navigate the narrow roads.


A quiet corner of the temple housed 500 Buddhas, 500 small stone statues who have been carefully covered with red aprons.



From Kiyomizu we walked north along the small roads and eventually found ourselves in Maruyama Koen (park). We were lucky to be there to see the begining of the cherry blossom festival. The park was packed with giddy Japanese people on holiday with friends and family and soaking in the flower display. They lay out tarps to stake claim to a territory where they will meet friends later to have o-Hanami (cherry blossom party). Here is a photo of some of the action. Unfortunately, we weren't prepared with a cooler of food and a tarp, but we did take advantage of the makeshift "beer garden" to have our own small hanami.






Our time in Kyoto was short, but we managed to see so many great places. Kyoto is an easy place to tour. The city buses offer easy and cheap access to many interesting places, but Kyoto has so many places to see, we will definately have to return. I close this blog with a photo of one of the most famous sakura in Japan, a 300 year old tree in Maruyama Koen. I still can't believe we were lucky enough to be there while it was in bloom.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

First Guests

We had our first guests join us in Japan. Mom and Megan came to visit (that is why we took the holiday to Nara - read about it in the previous post). They had a layover in Osaka so we flew there to meet them and tour Kyoto for a couple days before coming back to Sapporo to show them around here.

The day they arrived, we checked into our hotel where we would be staying with them. Then we took a walk to Sanjusangen-do temple in Kyoto. This temple boasts 1001 Buddhas and 28 Deities. Constructed in the 12th and 13th century, it was stunning, and very busy compared to Nara. There are no photos allowed in the temple, lucky that my sneaky Japanese camera has a "museum" function that supresses flash and sound so I was able to sneak a couple of pics.



There was a beautiful garden outside and we were happy to see some of the early sakura blossoms while there.


From there we walked to a nearby and newer Buddhist temple. We arrived while the monks were praying and had the good fortune of walking around the ouside deck and listening to the monks chanting. Here is a photo of a couple of the monks leaving the building that is dressed in beautiful coloured flags blowing in the breeze. We watched one young monk rush out of prayer and drop his cell phone from the sleeve of his robe. It is funny to see the combination of old and new here.


From there we went out to the airport to greet our guests. It was great to see mom and Meg and I think that they were both glad to be off the plane after a long flight. It is strange to host guests in a foreign country. We wanted to be more familiar but being unable to read and speak efficiently certainly limits the amount of hospitality one can provide. We had a beautiful couple of days in Kyoto and were so lucky to be there for the beginning of a very early sakura season, but I will save description of our tourist adventures for subsequent blogs.

Sacred Deer



Nara is the first permanent capital of Japan. It was established in 710 and lasted as the capital for about 75 years, the resulting character of these circumstances is some magestic temples set in a quiet, less travelled location. The city is only a short 45 minute train ride from Kyoto, but because Kyoto has so many jems to tantalize tourists, few make the trip to Nara. In my opinion, the short ride is well worth the day to see it.

Shawn and I hopped on an early train out of Kyoto - we took the express by accident and had to fork over an extra 500 yen (something that we did frequently in the coming few days of train tripping). We arrived early while the city was still waking and found the bike rental shop. We were lucky to rent the last two bikes in the compound, to the chagrin of the line of foreign tourists behind us. Shawn's back tire had a slow leak and my front brake was toasted, but it didn't matter much because the city is pretty flat and easy riding.

The bikes were a great way to see Nara park, a huge greenspace in the east of the city where many of the most interesting temples and sights of the city reside. The sacred deer (see photo above) also live in the park. Shinto religion believes that deer are messengers of the gods, and so this herd has been revered for centuries and are even enjoy legal protection as "national treasures" and "important cultural property". They have been hand fed by tourists for long enough to be relatively domesticated and were a highlight of the visit. They didn't jump when you reached out to pet them, or push them, or when cars passed by narrowly missing them with their side mirrors. My advice, you can buy "deer crackers" and hand feed them, but it is much more fun to watch others get mauled by agressive deer. That way when you want to haul one over for a photo, they don't smell it on your hands and loose their minds.

Our first stop in the park was a 5 story pagoda (this was the first place that we met the sacred deer - you can see them in the foreground of this photo).


Our next stop was Todaji temple. It was built in the 8th century and claims to be the largest wood construction in the world. It houses a massive bronze Buddha that was cast in 752. This Buddha has seen its fair share of earthquakes and has even lost his head a time or two, but it has been restored and upkept beautifully and is a sight to see. The temple is guarded by what they claim is the largest wood carvings, they were impressive but sadly live behind chain fencing, probably to prevent bird nesting.






Stop number three was the Kasuga Shrine. A shinto shrine with over 3000 stone lanterns along the paths around the shrine. My only regret is not seeing this place at night with the lanterns lit up, maybe next visit I guess. This spot was wooded and provided a beautiful spot to get off the bikes and have a stroll in the forest.



We ended the day with a walk through the narrow street that are lined with shops peddaling everything from Hello Kitty in the arms of a giant Buddah, to tennis shoes and school uniforms. We had a great and easy day in Nara and I would put this close to the top of the list of destinations to see in Japan for anyone interesting in visiting.